Threading together culture and modernity

"Before that, we spent a year or so communicating (with designers in Paris) on which stitches to use. We made examples featuring different stitches. Finally, it was decided that we would apply the dazi method only."

She says Scharf's design showed mostly highly saturated colors, different from what they normally do for domestic clients.

She says the studio customized and dyed silk threads to make sure the vivid, graffiti style of Scharf's work would be faithfully replicated on textile.

"It was important that no extra space was left among the 'seed' knots. The knots should be even in size and look vivid. The surface should feel smooth in general."

The shirt, which reflects the multiple affinities that Dior and the LVMH Group have developed with China, is on show at the 7th edition of the China International Import Expo that runs until Sunday in Shanghai.

Hu grew up watching female members of her family working on embroidery. She had the impression that many of her neighbors were also involved in handicraft trades, such as bamboo weaving and cloth art.

"Handicrafts are the foundation of what we are and the power for those who live in Jiangnan (the southern region of the lower reaches of Yangtze River)," she says.