Unusual ancient buildings find new life in Fujian

A bird's-eye view of the Zhencheng Lou, listed as a World Heritage site. [Photo by Wu Yuliang / for chinadaily.com.cn]

In the rolling hills of Fujian province, Shengheng Lou, a tulou in Longyan's Yongding district — with nearly four centuries of history — has been reborn. Once a massive communal residence, it is now a hotel.

Several fires had ravaged the structure and left it in a state of disrepair. But a significant investment of nearly 12 million yuan ($1.7 million) has transformed it into a modern boutique destination with 14 large suites. In 2023, the unusual hotel could accommodate around 5,000 guests.

The renovation of Shengheng Lou opened the door for Lin Hui, who returned to her hometown to manage it. Born in 1986 within the walls of another tulou in Yongding, she understands the territory, and the history.

"I felt grateful to find a job near home to further pursue my career and stay close to my aging parents," Lin said.

Tulou — the term translates literally as "earthen building" — typically has an earthen outer wall and an internal wooden framework. They resemble the large circular structures of ancient Rome from the outside, but those were built for battle.

Rusheng Lou is highlighted in the Chinese animated film Big Fish and Begonia. [Photo by Li Jing / chinadaily.com.cn]

The tulou in Fujian were constructed by the Hakka people, a sub-group of the Han ethnic group that fled from the north to what is now Fujian in many waves to escape conflict in the central plains. A massive migration took place in the 12th century because of warfare and social turbulence. They eventually found refuge in the mountainous areas to the south.

Thousands of tulou are scattered across Fujian, with Yongding being home to 1,768 of them.

According to historical records at the Fujian tulou museum, Yongding is known as the cradle of the communal dwellings. As the region was home to numerous skilled craftsmen, when the craftsmen migrated they carried sophisticated tulou construction techniques with them, thereby spreading the architectural knowledge to surrounding regions.

"The greatest threat to the tulou is abandonment," Lin said. "The wooden frameworks are interconnected, and if one room deteriorates, it can easily lead to the collapse of adjacent rooms. Maintaining occupancy and regular maintenance is crucial to preserving the integrity of these historic structures."

She recalled that, at the beginning of the renovation of Shengheng Lou, "the condition of the building was quite awful, except for the solid walls". The renovation addressed the structure's traditional vulnerabilities — mainly water damage — by investing heavily in waterproofing. Modern amenities like toilets were added, and fire protection systems, including sprinklers and smoke detectors, were installed. The bamboo and wood skeleton was reinforced with steel, ensuring structural integrity.

Shengheng Lou, boasting nearly four centuries of history, has been converted into a boutique hotel. [Photo by Wu Yuliang / for chinadaily.com.cn]

Converting the tulou into boutique hotels is just one of many initiatives in Yongding that aim to revitalize the ancient dwellings. A variety of other approaches, including homestays, immersive performances, traditional tea houses and folk art workshops, have also helped transform and preserve the old structures.

The district has secured a significant amount of money for the preservation and use of traditional dwellings. A special fund has been established by local authorities, with more than 20 percent of the operating income from the tulou in the region allocated to preservation efforts.

Li Changliu, a manager from a local State-owned company for tulou tourism development, said, "The innovative utilization of tulou continuously strengthens the vitality and influence of tulou architecture. It contributes to rural revitalization and shows how cultural preservation can go hand-in-hand with economic growth."

In 2023, the Yongding Tulou Scenic Area attracted more than 4.6 million visitors and generated revenues of 182.37 million yuan. During the May Day holiday in 2024, the area welcomed 220,000 visitors, resulting in a staggering 155 percent increase in tourism compared with the previous year, China Central Television reported.

Chengqi Lou is known as the king of tulou due to its immense size. [Photo by Li Jing / chinadaily.com.cn]

In Fujian, 46 tulou were listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites in 2018, including 23 in Yongding. Since then, at least 800 million yuan has been invested for the maintenance and improvement of World Heritage buildings in the Yongding area.

While non-World Heritage tulou like Shengheng Lou are being transformed to suit modern needs, the World Heritage tulou remain under strict protection to preserve the traditional lifestyle.

Lin Shangkang, a 52-year-old resident of the World Heritage-listed Zhencheng Lou, is one of the tulou owners. He starts his day with black tea, a Hakka staple. When visitors arrive in the morning, Lin, with his knowledge of tulou history and architecture, serves as a tour guide and shares stories of his ancestors, along with information about the building's construction and the Hakka people's way of life.

"I never get tired of telling visitors about the history of this place; I enjoy it," Lin said with a sparkle in his eye. The four-story clay building, which covers an area of nearly three-quarters of a soccer pitch, was built a century ago by his great grandfather's brothers. As tourism breathes new life into the tulou, Lin and his family have embraced the changes.

"We are richer. Our life is better. So is our living environment," he said.

It's not just a building; it's the legacy. Today, it continues to house 18 families — about 80 people.

The tulou's fame was further boosted when it was featured as the heroine's home in the Disney live-action movie Mulan and in the Chinese animated feature film Big Fish and Begonia. The movies have brought more young people to experience the buildings, as well as the history behind them.

Zeng Jieshan, a 16-year-old high school student from Shenzhen, Guangdong province, traveled four hours by high-speed train to experience the tulou firsthand. "I used to think ancient buildings were mostly temples or royal residences, like the Forbidden City, but here in the tulou, people still live and thrive."

As evening approaches, the tourists depart and the tulou returns to its peaceful state. This is the time that Lei Xueping likes most, because now she can focus on her paintings. Three months ago, the 24-year-old art graduate from Ningde, Fujian, joined a local tourism company in Yongding to design tulou-themed cultural products.

"People here are simple, warm and unpretentious," she said. "Life moves at a slower pace, allowing me to pursue my artistic dreams and support myself."

The four-story Zhencheng Lou still accommodates 18 families, totaling approximately 80 individuals. [Photo by Li Jing / chinadaily.com.cn]