Nation developing taste for truffles

KUNMING — Entering March, Li Yongfen and her daughter-in-law were finally able to enjoy a well-deserved rest, putting an end to their days of getting up in the early morning to harvest black truffles deep in the forest.

From last November to February, the family from Yongren county, Southwest China's Yunnan province, picked some 200 kilograms of wild black truffles, bringing home an additional income of 18,000 yuan ($2,500).

Dubbed the "black diamond" in some European countries, the precious black truffle is one of the most expensive edible fungi in the world.

As the fungus gains increasing popularity among Chinese consumers and various products are developed, an industrial chain that covers production, processing, sales and product innovation is being established in Yunnan, a major province for black truffle growth.

Based on the previous picking experience, Li was able to estimate the growing locations of truffles.

"This year, the truffle prices are fairly good, reaching up to 500 yuan per kilogram," said Li.

The growing conditions of truffles are extremely harsh, and they can only form under specific climates, soil and tree species.

With more than 2,800 hours of sunshine throughout the year and up to three-quarters of forest coverage, Yongren county is an ideal area for truffle growing. The county has an annual truffle production of 40 metric tons, accounting for 20 percent of China's total.

Figures show that the county produced 45 tons of truffles from January last year to February this year, generating an output of 19 million yuan.

The rising prices have prompted more and more villagers to pick truffles. Due to biological factors, the county bans truffle picking from March 1 to Oct 31 every year to ensure better protection and utilization of the resources, said Wang Jianbiao, deputy chief of the county's forestry and grassland bureau.

The county has set up 20 bases for wild fungus breeding and propagation and local farmers have also been trained in proper truffle harvesting techniques, Wang added.

To extend the industrial chain and increase the added value, a factory engaged in truffle production, processing and sales was established there in 2014. Products such as dried truffles, edible fungus pills and canned truffles have entered the market.

Xiong Haikuan, chairman of the company, said they have made a breakthrough in preservation techniques, extending the shelf life from 20 to 50 days. The company has also developed truffle noodles, truffle sausages and other products, bringing the high-end food ingredient to countless dining tables.

Their truffle products have been sold to the provinces of Guangdong, Zhejiang, Fujian and Jiangsu and some items are in short supply.

"Some of the products are even exported to Japan, Italy and other countries," he said, adding that the sales revenue of the company exceeded 36 million yuan last year.

Statistics from online platforms show that the number of catering businesses offering truffle-based dishes has risen by more than 140 percent year-on-year so far in 2024, with the number of orders almost tripling.

Zheng Jing, a 30-year-old white-collar worker in Beijing, is a fungus fan. She often buys imported truffle-flavored products online, including sausages and crab legs.

When she learned there were homemade truffle-based products, she said she would definitely have a try.

"Just like fruit like blueberries, they were initially expensive because they were all imported. But when homegrown blueberries with the same quality entered the market, the prices dropped to a large extent," she said.

Xinhua