Pingyao: A walk through historic China

Pingyao has been a county seat since the Qin Dynasty, resulting in a large well-preserved yamen. A country government office was known as a yamen and that in Pingyao dates from1346 during the Yuan Dynasty, with its present buildings going back to the Ming era. They formerly housed the office and home of the magistrate sent to act as mayor, judge and senior official for Pingyao. Entered through a ceremonial gate, this yamen had over 300 rooms including not only offices but also a court, meeting rooms, residential areas, a garden and even a prison. It proved to be a fascinating compound to explore and to appreciate more of the grandeur of Pingyao.

South Street (Nanda), also known as "Ming-Qing Street", is 450 meters long and forms the central axis of Pingyao. Today it has transformed into a traffic-free commercial and tourism street, one that is a sheer joy to walk down at night, with buildings often illuminated.

For cnturies South Street was also the main commercial avenue in Pingyao, and some of its businesses still occupy buildings going back hundreds of years. A whole variety of trading goes on along its course with outlets selling snacks as well as paintings, wooden furniture, calligraphy and more. On busy days it can feel like being back in some older crowded bazaar.

Historically Pingyao was at the center of trade links created by its merchants extensively across China and even venturing overseas, making it the heart of Shanxi's prosperity and even of China's banking industry. In 1832 the first piaohao, or exchange house, opened in Pingyao, providing remittance services, accepting deposits and offering loans. It was named Rishengchang, or Sunrise Prosperity, and known as the "Father of the Bank in China". It continued operations until finally closing in 1932. Located within a former private courtyard, it can be visited and indeed provides a fascinating learning experience. Rishengchang went on to establish 43 branches across China with others opening overseas including Japan, Singapore and Russia. Ultimately over 50 percent of China's piaohao had their headquarters in Pingyao.